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THORNCLIFFE
WOOD
SHEFFIELD
The
Woodlands of Chapeltown
This
continuous sweep of woodlands dominates the skyline along a five kilometre
stretch of the west facing slope of the coal measures on the boundary
between Sheffield and Barnsley between Tankersley and Thorpe Hesley. It
provides an extremely important landscape feature and shelters Chapeltown
from the intrusion of the heavt traffic on the M1 and the Stocksbridge
bypass. Three sections of this woodland, Newbiggin Plantation, Thorncliffe
Wood and Chapeltown Park Wood, are managed as heritage woods under the
Fuelling a Revolution project. There could be no more appropriate candidates
for inclusion in the project for they have been integral in the industrial
developments of the area since the earliest times.
With its long
history of iron working and coal mining the whole area was subject to
high levels of pollution of all kinds. Spoil heaps and pits scarred the
landscape, railway lines crisscrossed the historic woods, aerial ropeways
clattered overhead with spoil or coal and the air was choked with the
smoke and emission from the coking and chemical works. With the closure
of the pits and the demise of heavy industry, however, the woodlands are
recovering and areas which were once heaps of black spoil are covering
with regenerated vegetation and are becoming valuable wildlife habitats.
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and Iron - .jpg)
The
Story of Thorncliffe Wood.
Thorncliffe
Wood may well be part of the ‘pasturable woodland’ referred
to in the Domesday book as belonging to the manor of Tankersley, although
it is first mentioned by name in a document dating from around 1600, listing
the woodlands belonging to Gilbert, 7th Earl of Shrewsbury. At this time
it was known as Thorncliffe Spring. Both the word 'Spring' and the description
of the wood in the document show that it was managed by coppicing for
the production of charcoal and other products. The entry reads;-
‘Thorncliffe
Spring one half about nine years old, ye other half coalable—30
acres’.
This provides
definite evidence that the wood was a coppice wood, half of which had
been cut nine years earlier and half was ready to be cut for charcoal
making. In 1657 the wood was included in a charcoal contract between Lionel
Copley, a Rotherham ironmaster, and the 2nd Earl of Strafford of Wentworth
Woodhouse.
By the end
of the eighteenth century this landscape would be drastically changed,
for in 1793 George Newton and Thomas Chambers, both of the Phoenix Foundry
in Sheffield, signed a lease with the Marquis allowing them to build an
ironworks on the site between the Blackburn Brook and Thorncliffe Wood
to take advantage of the immediate availability of coal, iron and wood.
Blast furnaces were built on the meadow beside the brook and coal and
ironstone mines were sunk deep into the wooded slopes of Thorncliffe Wood.
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These views
of the works, drawn in about 1800, very clearly show the Thorncliffe Ironworks
in these early days. Two figures on horseback cross the bridge over the
Blackburn Brook in the foreground. Behind them stand the two open topped
blast furnaces which smelted the iron which is being carted and barrowed
to the heaps which stretch up the field. The tall building behind the
blast furnaces is a steam engine house which would operate the pump to
provide the blast of cold air into the furnaces. It is possible to make
out the end of the beam of the engine sticking out of the right hand side.
Thorncliffe Wood itself is still intact at this stage and forms a delightful
frame to the industrial scene below. About 300 men were employed at the
works; by 1900 Newton and Chambers Thorncliffe Ironworks employed over
8000.
The building of the railway lines through the woods caused further destruction.
In 1839, for example, the building of the Thorncliffe and Elsecar railway
line, which linked the ironworks with the Tankersley Park iron pits, the
Hoyland mines and the Elsecar canal demanded the felling of large numbers
of mature trees for use as sleepers. The tracks of these old lines still
form the basis for the major pathways through Thorncliffe and Newbiggin
woods.
Even before
this date, in the mid eighteenth century, the beds of coal measure ironstone
were being mined on a small scale along the line of their outcrop in the
woods for the Chapel furnace in Chapeltown. Although deep mining was used,
especially after 1840, a substantial proportion of the ironstone was still
mined from shallow bell pits and would to the surface be a horse gin.
Such gin pits would be sunk in rows along the outcrop and the results
of this can still be seen in the disturbed and uneven surface of the Chapeltown
woodlands today. Despite agreements that the pits would be filled and
young trees replanted all the woodlands were considerably disturbed, the
soil turned over and most mature trees felled. The woods were no longer
managed as coppice.
The intensity
of coal mining operations in the Chapeltown area was extraordinary. Although
the earlier mines operated by Newton Chambers company were small drifts
and adits deeper mines were sunk at Thorncliffe Main Colliery, Staindrop
Colliery, Norfolk Colliery, Rockingham Colliery, Grange Colliery, Smithy
Wood, Tankersley Colliery and Newbiggin pit. In the 1940s a major drainage
system was built extending from Elsecar to Thorncliffe. By the 1890s the
company was mining a million tons of coal a year from which 200,000 tons
of coke were produced. The company continued mining operations until the
pits were nationalised in 1947. By the second half of the nineteenth century
the works of Newton Chambers had reached the proportions of a major industrial
complex. The original blast furnaces were replaced by larger capacity
furnaces in 1873 and the flat land along the Blackburn Brook was covered
with other industrial buildings including coking ovens. A vast range of
cast iron products were turned out.
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The policy
of replanting areas which had been worked out in the early nineteenth
century actually resulted in the boundary of the woodland gradually extending.
The oldest trees presently in the wood are mainly beech and sycamore of
roughly 170—180 years old indicating that these non-natives are
part of this replanting policy. To a great extent we can see the Chapeltown
woodlands as good examples of successful early land reclamation schemes.
When first
replanted the woods continued to be managed with thinnings used for pit
props, poles and stakes. During the whole of the 20th century, however,
little management took place and the woodlands were left to fend for themselves.
The range of
products pouring from the gates of Newton Chambers continued to extend.
Chemicals were produced as a by-product of the coking plant, the most
famous being Izal disinfectant and during the wars production was turned
over to munitions. In the First World War two million shell casings were
manufactured and during the Second World War the new excavator division
on warren lane was turned over to producing 1160 Churchill tanks, one
of which has been preserved and stands on the site.
One of the
firm’s most surprising products, however, must have been the cast
iron houses which were produced in 1930. A few still stand on Mortomley
Close nearby.
After trading
for 180 years Newton Chambers was taken over in 1973 and much of it sold
off. Today the site has been redeveloped into a trading estate, the local
mines have long closed and the scarred landscape is beginning to recover.
Some of the older, stone built buildings have been retained and South
Yorkshire Forest Partnership offices now occupy part of the original office
block of the company.
The Westwood
Riots
The path from the car park on Taverner
Way in High Green passes a large pond, formerly the reservoir for the
Thorncliffe works, before passing, on the right, the site of Westwood
Rows, a double row of miners cottages and a methodist chapel. This was
the scene of serious rioting in 1870 when the houses were built to accommodate
non-union miners while their own men were on strike. On the morning of
Friday 21st January 1870 an armed crowd of hundreds of men attacked the
houses and only when police reinforcements arrived from Barnsley did the
ensuing violence, damage and looting come under control.
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As a result of the days riots twenty
three men were sent for trial to York assizes. Soldiers, quartered at
the Workingmen’s Hall at Motromley for the next six months held
an uneasy peace until the dispute was brought to an end.
THORNCLIFFE WOOD TODAY
Thorncliffe
Wood is now a semi-natural ancient woodland. Although it is now dominated
mainly by sycamore, it also has significant numbers of oak trees as well
as a few beech and ash. The shrub layer consists mainly of young sycamore,
and ash , plus a few willow and birch. It is one of the few local woods
where elm forms a significant feature and indeed there are some large
mature elms which appear to have escaped the ravages of Dutch elm disease.
There is a rich ground flora, including a number of species characteristic
of ancient woodland sites.
The footpaths from High Green and Mortomley
approach the wood across areas of open grassland and scrubland which are
very rich in plant, bird and insect life. The open areas between High
Green and St Mary’s Junior Schools and the Blackburn brook are have
a rich variety of trees including many elms, willows and some sweet chestnuts.
The edges of Thorncliffe wood on this
side are not clearly defined and the woodland merges into the surrounding
open areas of scrubland and grassland. These woodland edges, rides and
glades are not only attractive they are also very rich habitats for insects,
especially butterflies, and birds. The middle of the wood itself is dense.
Little light reaches the woodland floor and the ground layer of flora
is poor. There are, however, some good trees, especially the large elms
which survive in the middle of the wood.
The Trans-Pennine Trail, part of a national
network of multi-user paths, runs through the wood following the route
of the old railway line. Access to areas of the woodland away from this,
though possible, is less good especially in winter and wet weather when
the paths are extremely muddy.
Under the Fuelling a Revolution programme,
woodland restoration and access improvement work is taking place to restore
Thorncliffe Wood to its former glory and to maximise its potential as
a recreational and educational resource. Some thinning and group felling
will be carried out in order to create a more varied woodland structure
dominated by oak and other native trees. Sycamore, a non-native but highly
invasive species, will be particularly favoured for removal. Access to
the woodland will be improved by upgrading the path system and measures
will be taken to prevent the damage currently being done to this by motorcyclists.
This will partly be achieved through the construction of post and rail
fencing around parts of the woodland boundary. Finally, the potential
of the site as an educational and recreational resource will be developed
through guided walks, events relating to the natural history and historic
interest of the site, children's events and practical management tasks
Other nearby Heritage
Woodlands are:
Newbiggin
Wood
 
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